São Jorge, Azores – Fajãs, Natural Pools, Local Cheese & Hikes

São Jorge belongs to the central islands of the Azores, and it is undoubtedly one of the greenest and most beautiful. We visited this island twice — drawn first by the idea of seeing majestic Pico from the south side, and then by the promise of exploring São Jorge’s famous fajãs. After only one day, the island had already won us over with its sheer cliffs, lush vegetation, peaceful villages, and the unforgettable calls of the night‑active Cory’s Shearwater echoing through the darkness.

Hydrangeas bloom here from May to July–August, lining the roads and viewpoints with blue and purple flowers, often with Pico rising in the background. São Jorge is known for its dramatic coastline and its tiny headlands, the fajãs — between 50 and 70 of them scattered across an island just 53 km long and 7 km wide. Crossing the entire island takes little more than an hour, yet it offers an incredible variety of landscapes.

In this guide, I’ll share the most beautiful fajãs, natural swimming pools, best hikes, viewpoints, the best time to visit, and my personal restaurant tip. I’ve added a Table of Contents for all must‑visit places on São Jorge — and don’t be surprised by the bird sound you can click below. That strange, haunting call belongs to the Cory’s Shearwater, a night‑active seabird you’ll hear throughout the warmer months.

The Fajãs of São Jorge – Tiny Plains Shaped by Volcanoes & Time

The fajãs of São Jorge are unlike anything else in the Azores. These tiny, fertile coastal plains sit at the base of steep volcanic cliffs, formed over thousands of years by lava flows, landslides, and collapsing rock faces. Instead of creating calderas like on other islands, São Jorge’s eruptions sent lava directly down the slopes into the sea, cooling instantly and leaving behind isolated patches of flat land.

Today, between 50 and 70 fajãs stretch along this long, narrow island — just 53 km in length and 7 km at its widest point. Many of these fajãs have their own microclimate, allowing almost anything to grow: coffee, wine, figs, bananas, vegetables, and even tobacco once thrived here. In the early centuries of settlement, these plains made life possible on São Jorge, even though the steep cliffs behind them were nearly impossible to climb.

Some fajãs were abandoned after devastating earthquakes, especially the major events in 1757 and 1980, which destroyed homes and reshaped parts of the island. Today, many fajãs can be reached by car, while others require hiking or a 4WD. What they all share is a sense of isolation, beauty, and a deep connection to São Jorge’s volcanic past.

São Jorge’s fajãs are among the most iconic landscapes in the Azores — tiny, fertile plains lying at the base of steep volcanic cliffs. Many have coastal lagoons or natural pools, and several are connected by one of the island’s most famous hiking trails. Below you’ll find the most beautiful and well‑known fajãs on the north coast, including Fajã dos Cubres and Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo.

Fajã dos Cubres – Lagoon, Quiet Houses & Coastal Beauty

Fajã dos Cubres is one of the most beautiful fajãs on São Jorge. A narrow, winding road leads down from the ER1 to a peaceful settlement with a handful of houses and a stunning coastal lagoon. This is also the starting point for one of the island’s most famous hikes — the trail connecting Cubres with Caldeira de Santo Cristo.

The lagoon here is calm and scenic, surrounded by lush vegetation, lizzards, and steep cliffs rising dramatically behind the plain. Even if you don’t plan to hike, Cubres is worth a visit for its tranquil atmosphere and postcard‑perfect views.

Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo – Lagoon, Clams & Famous Hiking Trail

Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo is one of São Jorge’s most iconic locations. Its coastal lagoon is home to the island’s famous ameijoas (clams), harvested outside the protected period from May 15 to August 15. The lagoon, the small chapel, and the surrounding cliffs create one of the most atmospheric landscapes in the Azores.

Most visitors hike here from Serra do Topo, descending steeply through lush forest until the trail reaches the lagoon. The drone photo you often see online — the one showing the perfect curve of the lagoon — was taken from above, not from the trail itself.

We hiked the route differently: starting from Fajã dos Cubres, walking through the forest to the viewpoint, and returning the same way. This is a great alternative for anyone who doesn’t want to tackle the full descent.

Trail details

• Length: 10.7 km / 6.7 miles
• Elevation gain: 681 m / 2,234 ft
• Shuttle: Required if hiking the full trail up or down. Taxi numbers are posted at the trailhead, or you can ask your host for recommendations.
• Hiking Map

Tip

If you can’t hike the full trail, you can still enjoy a spectacular view from the first viewpoint shortly after turning onto the road to Fajã dos Cubres.

Fajã do Belo – Between Cubres & Santo Cristo

Fajã do Belo lies between Cubres and Santo Cristo and is passed along the hiking route. Its dramatic cliffs tower above the plain, creating one of the most impressive vertical walls on the island.

While Belo is less visited than the other two fajãs, it adds to the rugged beauty of the north coast and completes the trio of famous fajãs connected by the trail.

Fajã da Ribeira da Areia – Lava Arch & Lush Coastal Walls

Fajã da Ribeira da Areia, close to Norte Grande, quickly became one of our favorite places on São Jorge. Even halfway down the road, the views are already impressive — steep green cliffs, a dramatic coastline, and the volcanic arch rising from the sea.

Although the last section of the road is officially gravel, most of it has recently been tarred. We were prepared to hike the final part, but we reached the fajã and the lava arch without any difficulty.

The highlight here is the Arco da Fajã da Ribeira da Areia, a spectacular basalt arch formed by ancient lava flow. This fajã is one of only three on the north coast created by basaltic lava. The entire landscape is breathtaking: lush vegetation growing almost to the waterline, sheer vertical walls, and even an immense waterfall cascading down the cliffs. The scenery reminded us of Kauai in Hawaii — wild, green, and untouched. This spot is not well‑known, and absolutely one of my top tips.

Fajã do Ouvidor – Village Life & Natural Pools

Fajã do Ouvidor is the largest fajã on São Jorge, formed by lava flow roughly 10,000 years ago. A well‑developed serpentine road leads down from Norte Grande, and just below the village a signposted viewpoint offers a beautiful panorama of the settlement.

Unlike many other fajãs, Ouvidor is a real village with cafés, restaurants, and even a lighthouse. In summer, it’s lively and popular; in winter, only a few residents remain.

One of the main reasons to visit Fajã do Ouvidor is its natural swimming pools — both at the harbor and at the famous Poca Simão Dias. The short walk to Poca Simão Dias leads through impressive black lava formations, already breathtaking before you reach the pools.

At high tide, you can bathe in the protected natural pools. At low tide, a steep but well‑maintained rocky trail leads down to the huge lava basin. Swimming here feels like floating in the purest sea water — an unforgettable experience. 

Fajã das Almas – Natural Pool With a View of Pico

Fajã das Almas sits in the southern center of São Jorge and rewards anyone who tackles its brutally steep road. The descent is tough, but once you reach the sea, you step into one of the island’s most beautiful natural swimming pools — often quiet, even on Sundays.

We swam and snorkeled in crystal‑clear water while Pico towered in the background. The combination of calm ocean, volcanic rock, and that iconic silhouette makes this fajã one of the most scenic swimming spots on the island.

Fajã dos Vimes – Coffee, Cookies & Sheer Cliffs

Fajã dos Vimes lies in the southeast and is one of the most popular fajãs in the south. The sheer cliffs rise dramatically behind the settlement, creating a striking backdrop for one of São Jorge’s most charming stops: Nunus Café.

The owners welcomed us warmly, and their homemade cookies — sweet potato, nuts, and traditional São Jorge flavors — paired perfectly with their locally grown coffee. Sitting here with a cup of coffee grown just meters away is one of the most authentic experiences on the island.

Natural Pools of São Jorge – The Best Spots to Swim

São Jorge has some of the most beautiful natural swimming pools in the Azores. Many of them sit right below steep volcanic cliffs, carved into black lava, and filled with crystal‑clear Atlantic water. Some pools belong to fajãs, others stand alone near villages — but all offer unforgettable swimming experiences.

Below you’ll find the best natural pools on the island, based on our own visits.

Poca Simão Dias (Fajã do Ouvidor)

Poca Simão Dias is one of the most spectacular natural pools on São Jorge. A short walk from Fajã do Ouvidor leads through dramatic black lava formations to a huge basin carved by the sea. At high tide, you can swim in calm, protected water. At low tide, a steep but well‑maintained rocky trail takes you down to the pool.

We swam here and loved the feeling of floating in incredibly soft, clear water. Even though this is one of the island’s most famous pools, we had it completely to ourselves in July.

Harbor Pool (Fajã do Ouvidor)

Fajã do Ouvidor also has a second natural pool right at the harbor. It’s easy to access, great for families, and perfect if you want a quick swim without hiking. The water is deep blue, and the lava walls protect the pool from waves.

Natural Pool of Fajã das Almas

Fajã das Almas rewards anyone who braves its brutally steep road with a quiet, beautiful natural pool right by the sea. Even on Sundays, this spot stays uncrowded. We swam and snorkeled in crystal‑clear water while Pico rose in the background — one of the most scenic swimming locations on the island.

Natural Pools of Velas

Velas offers one of the best places to spend a relaxed afternoon. The natural pools here come with everything you need: showers, toilets, picnic tables, shade, and plenty of space. The water is deep blue and crystal clear, and despite being one of the top swimming spots on São Jorge, it wasn’t busy in July.

Natural Pool at Moinho da Urzelina

Urzelina’s natural pool sits next to the beautifully restored old mills — a perfect sunset location with Pico glowing in the background. A newly built path connects the mills and the pool, making it easy to explore both.

There’s also a great restaurant nearby, Manezinho, within walking distance. This is an ideal place to end the day: swim, enjoy dinner, and stay for the nightly bird chorus around 10 pm in summer.

Restaurant Tip – Manezinho in Urzelina

Our top recommendation in Urzelina is Manezinho, a stylish Art Restaurant just a short walk from the mills and the natural swimming pool. We came here several times and always left happy. Their tapas, fresh seafood, meat dishes, burgers, and especially the lapas were excellent. The white sangria was perfect after a day of swimming, and the fast Wi‑Fi made it easy to upload photos and plan the next hikes.

The restaurant sits close to the restored mills and the ocean path, making it an ideal place to end the day.

Reservation tip: If you want to sit outside, call +351 968 990 696. Location: Google Maps

Where to Stay in Urzelina – Peaceful Location by the Mills

Urzelina is one of the most atmospheric places to stay on São Jorge. You’re close to the natural swimming pool, the restored mills, the ocean path, and the excellent Manezinho restaurant — all within walking distance. It’s the perfect base if you want quiet evenings, sunset views of Pico, and easy access to the island’s south coast.

Most cottages and guesthouses here offer sea views, private terraces, and a calm setting far away from the busier towns. We loved staying in Urzelina because everything we needed was nearby: swimming spots, restaurants, viewpoints, and the nightly bird chorus that starts around 10 pm in summer.

If you’re planning your trip, check availability early — Urzelina has limited accommodation, and the best cottages book out fast.

How Many Days to Spend in São Jorge?

To experience São Jorge properly — its dramatic fajãs, natural pools, viewpoints, and wild volcanic landscapes — you should plan at least four days and five nights. This gives you enough time for a few hikes, relaxed swims, and spontaneous detours without rushing from one place to the next. We spent an entire week here and loved every minute.

Even in summer, São Jorge stays lush and green because of regular rainfall. The driest months still bring occasional full days of precipitation, so having extra time helps you enjoy the island at a comfortable pace. We spent a full week here and still wished for one more day. The combination of raw nature and warm, welcoming residents makes it easy to relax and stay longer.

Is São Jorge Worth Visiting?

Absolutely — São Jorge is easily in our top three Azores islands. The combination of sheer cliffs, dramatic fajãs, crystal‑clear natural pools, excellent restaurants, and warm, welcoming residents makes this island unique. São Jorge feels vivid and authentic, yet peaceful enough to slow down and enjoy every moment.

Best Time to Visit São Jorge

São Jorge is beautiful year‑round, but each season offers a different experience. The island stays lush because of regular rainfall, even in summer, so it’s worth planning your trip with weather and sea conditions in mind.

The most pleasant months are May to October. Swimming is best from June to October, when the sea has warmed up. Hiking in July and August can feel strenuous because of the heat, so spring and autumn are more comfortable. If you want to see the famous hydrangeas in bloom, choose June or July. Think twice about August — it’s the busiest month due to school holidays in Portugal, and accommodation prices peak.

Average Sea Temperatures

• Spring (Mar–May): ~16–18°C
• Summer (Jun–Aug): ~20–23°C
• Autumn (Sep–Oct): ~20–22°C

Our Favourite Months

We especially love May, June, July, and September — warm weather, great hiking conditions, and beautiful landscapes without the full August crowds.

São Jorge Cheese – A Must‑Taste Island Specialty

São Jorge is famous for its traditional DOP cheese, a firm, slightly spicy cow’s milk cheese aged anywhere from three to thirty months. Dairy farming is part of daily life here — you’ll see cows grazing even on steep green slopes, contributing to the island’s long‑standing cheese tradition and the unmistakable flavor of this regional specialty.

During our visit, we stopped at the island’s famous local cheese shop, a highlight of the trip. Shelves were filled with wheels of São Jorge cheese in different maturations, alongside regional butter, milk, cream, and even São Jorge’s well‑known tuna in tin boxes. It’s a small, authentic store that gives you a real taste of the island’s food culture. You can sample various maturations, learn about the production process, and buy cheese directly from the source — a perfect stop between fajãs and viewpoints.

Ponta dos Rosais – The Edge of the World

Ponta dos Rosais feels like the end of the world. The western tip of São Jorge is wild, remote, and shaped by raw volcanic forces. A narrow gravel road leads out to the cliffs, and the moment you arrive, the landscape hits you with its scale — rugged walls, deep drop‑offs, and the Atlantic crashing far below.

The Wild Cliffs of Rosais

The cliffs at Rosais are some of the most dramatic on the island. Photos don’t capture the depth or the power of the scenery. Standing here, you feel how São Jorge was built — layer by layer, eruption by eruption. The coastline is rough, untouched, and unforgettable.

The Ruins of the Rosais Lighthouse

Rosais once had a manned lighthouse, and life here must have been incredibly harsh. Today, you can walk among the ruins of the cement lighthouse and the old family houses. The buildings still tell the story of isolation, storms, and the earthquakes that eventually forced people to leave. More about the lighthouse history here: History of this lighthouse

The Climb to the Cliff Viewpoint

To reach the best viewpoint, you need to climb over a low wall near the lighthouse. It’s easy enough, and the reward is huge: a breathtaking panorama of the majestic cliffs stretching into the ocean. This is one of the most impressive viewpoints on São Jorge.

Old Stone Shelters

Scattered around Rosais, you’ll find small stone shelters built decades ago. A kind elderly man from São Jorge told us these were used before roads existed. People walked to Rosais on foot, and when heavy rain hit — which can be brutal here — they waited inside the shelters until the weather cleared. These little structures add a human touch to an otherwise wild landscape.

Weird Vocalisation by Seabirds in the Night – Cory’s Shearwaters

Cory’s Shearwaters are one of São Jorge’s most unforgettable wildlife encounters. On our first evening, we walked back to the mills in complete darkness with our headlamps and suddenly heard dozens of birds calling from the cliffs and lava rocks. Every call sounded different — loud, strange, and almost eerie. We stood there for half an hour, listening and watching the birds glide in and out of the night.

Night Encounters at Urzelina

A female Cory’s Shearwater waited outside her burrow, illuminated only by our red light so we wouldn’t disturb her. The sounds around us were loud and chaotic, echoing across the rocks. It felt like stepping into another world or a movie — an absolute surprising moment of our trip.

Daytime Sightings at Sea

During our boat tour to Corvo, we watched Cory’s Shearwaters flying low over the water, catching fish with effortless precision. They are totally silent during the day, loud and social at night. Listening to them at night became one of our favorite rituals in Urzelina — a wild, natural soundtrack that starts around 10 pm in summer.

Facts About Cory’s Shearwaters

• Cory’s Shearwaters stay in the Azores from March to October before migrating to South Africa and South America.
• They mate for life and return to the Azores each year to breed.
• They nest in burrows between lava rocks, often close to the coast.
• Their plumage is white on the belly and brown on the back.
• They are deep divers, reaching depths of up to 15 meters.
• Their calls are unique:
  • Males produce a high, loud tone.
  • Females answer with a lower, duller sound.
  • Each bird has its own vocal signature.